Tools Required:
-Application Fluid and Spray Bottle (couple drops of dish soap in a spray bottle.)
-Plastic Squeegee
-Any Based Cleaner

Tools Recommend:
-Masking Tape
-Tape Measure
-Sharpie Marker
-Needle

Each decal has three pieces:
1. The top layer is the transfer tape.
2. The middle layer is the vinyl decal.
3. The bottom layer is the backing tape.

You should read these instructions all the way through before starting.  The surface must be clean, and free of all oils, waxes and dirt. Use Windex or a comparable cleaner to clean the glass.  If you use Rainex, try Formula 409 to remove it.  These decals come to you in three layers.  The top layer is called transfer tape. It looks somewhat like regular masking tape or clear protective film. The middle layer is the actual decal. The bottom layer is a backing paper treated with a release agent.

Aligning and Centering:
Measure where you want the decal to be applied.  About 2� above and below the outside of where the decal will actually be placed, apply a piece of masking tape as wide as the decal, making sure it is level.  You may also do this to the left and right of the decal.  You will use this masking tape as a reference to make sure your decal is aligned properly.

Application using the Dry Transfer Method:
You will need needle and a plastic squeegee.  Try to do at room temperature or above, the warmer it is, the better it works, but try not to do in direct sunlight.  Take plastic squeegee and flatten decal from both sides by rubbing over decal. Make sure all bubbles are out as much as possible.  Turn decal upside down and pull backing off slowly.  The backing is the heavier gauge paper.  Using needle or similar pointed object, hold edges of letters and all small areas while pulling away backing.  If a letter moves, just position back in place by pushing backing down and move letter back to original position.  Once the backing tape has been removed carefully position decal on application surface and flatten from the center out. Use a plastic squeegee to flatten as much as possible.  The transfer tape will allow you to rub the decal without damaging it.  Peel back edge of transfer tape slowly, watching small letters and corners to make sure they are stuck to surface, and not to tape.  Take your fingers check all edges and make sure they are tight. If you have an air bubble use a needle to poke a small hole allowing air to escape.  The bubbles may disappear after a day or two.  Once the decal touches the application surface, it cannot be moved again!  PLEASE DO NOT GET IN A HURRY!

Application using the Wet Transfer Method:
(recommended on most windshield applications, unless you have done this before.)
Mix a spray bottle of water with a couple drops of dish soap liquid.  Spray the area where decal is to be applied.  Trim away the transfer tape so that the tape is about (within 1/2") the size as the decal.  Remove the backing and place the decal, still attached to the transfer tape, to the thoroughly wetted surface.  The decal can now be moved and repositioned correctly, as it will slide on the thin film of solution trapped between the vinyl decal and the surface.  If you are doing a windshield decal and need to curve the letters, cut the tape between the letters about 3/4 of the way from top to bottom with a knife and position the letters where needed.  DO NOT cut all the way through as this will mess up the spacing between the letters.  When the decal is in the final location, use a small squeegee to squeeze the water and soap solution out from under the decal.  The transfer tape will protect the decal during this process.

Caution:
Be sure to squeegee as much solution as possible from under the decal.  Take your time, because if not enough solution is removed from under the decal, it will not adhere to the surface enough to allow the easy removal of the transfer tape.  Although a squeegee is the recommend tool, the water can be also removed using the fingers, or a soft cloth.  When finished with the squeegee, the transfer tape can be carefully removed.  Work the decal with your fingers, and a soft, absorbent cloth around the edges to remove any remaining solution.  Warm weather is best for this application.  If there are bubbles present under the decal that cannot be removed by working them to the edge of the decal with your fingers, then a small pin or needle can be used to puncture the decal at the bubble, and remove the air.  A small pinhole will not be seen after the air bubble has been worked out with the fingers.

Maintenance:
In colder climates, decals on windows of vehicles can be damaged by the scraping of frost or ice from the windows.  Mild window cleaner may be used to clean the windows without damage to the decal.  On painted surfaces of vehicles, care must be taken when waxing.  Wax will build up around the edges of the Decal, and will need to be removed.  Use a soft cloth, and take your time, and be gentle.  A brush, for example will force the wax underneath the edge of the Decal, and the Decal will begin to peel.  The Decal will not be damaged by normal use of automotive car wash products, or water.  Although the decals will withstand pressure washers, and automatic car washes, these will reduce the life and appearance of the decal.  The decals will not last forever, but will give many years of service if taken care of.

Removing Vinyl Decals:
On glass surfaces, with temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, a razor blade scraper can be used.  Decals can be removed from painted surfaces by using a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the decal to appoint where it peels off easily.

Final Note:
The application of this vinyl decal requires a degree of dexterity, and concentration.  If you feel you cannot apply this decal yourself, any auto detailer, or body shop can apply it for you.  We cannot be responsible for replacing decals that have been damaged during application.